One thousand feet above the valley floor, Orvieto overlooks the Italian countryside. Upon first glance, it would appear that the Cathedral of Orvieto is its only structure. Rising from the volcanic stone of the upper town, the 14th-century church simply creates that commanding of a presence.
The ancient city, a maze of narrow cobblestone streets lined with shops and cafes and fanning out in all directions, serves to complement the undeniably alluring gem.
Outside, the Cathedral of Orvieto is enchanting. Alternating dark and light-colored horizontal lines wrap around the sides to meet humbly at the doors of its facade.
Brilliant gold mosaics celebrate the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Animated stories glistening in the summer sun. Imposing statues of the twelve apostles arch around the stain-glass rose window.
The facade is spectacular. So what awaits inside? Could this gem’s interior possibly rival the impressiveness of its exterior?
Upon stepping through any church door, I rarely know where to first look. Usually a dominant object or feature initially attracts my attention. The altar, perhaps. A statue. A font of holy water. A stained-glass window illuminated by the sun.
Not this time.
After my eyes adjust to entering the dark church from the sunlit outdoors, my attention is drawn to the continuation of the striped pattern from the exterior sides. On the walls. On the tall columns that stretch from the ornate floor to the arches above, alternating dark and light-colored lines frame the interior.
And because the nave is narrower at the altar and wider toward the back, it appears to be longer than it actually is. Space. And even more space.
Soon, though, a closer look reveals more ornate details that rival the impressive facade. Most notable are the frescoes of the Chapel of the Madonna di San Brizio. The work of Luca Singnorelli, the frescoes vividly depict a variety of complex scenes. Among them are the Preaching of the Antichrist, The End of the World and the Resurrection of the Flesh. There are also scenes devoted to the Elect being led to Paradise and the Reprobates driven to Hell.
Inside and outside, the characteristics of the Cathedral of Orvieto make it virtually impossible to label. Impossible to forget.
(Note: Marjorie Appelman is an English, communications and journalism teacher at Mason County High School and co-founder of the travel blog Tales from the Trip, which is on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook. She can be reached at [email protected].)
