Endless turns and paths of flower-lined exteriors of stone buildings connected to stone buildings connected to stone buildings. Rows of shops, meticulously-arranged storefronts, placards dangling from wrought iron.
The sidewalks of Nafplio, Greece, feel like a destination in and of themselves. On our final day in Greece two summers ago, my husband and I spent the day wandering and wondering about this picturesque stone maze.
We’d greeted the town early in the morning when the air was crisp and the sun was low in the sky. Not a single cloud graced the blue backdrop.
In the afternoon, to escape the escalating temperature, we’d retreated to our accommodations for a few hours before heading back out for dinner, when we faced the inevitable, bittersweet reality of any trip: it was drawing to an end.
As the sun descended, our thoughts turned to finding a place where we could grab a memorable dessert. Although the heat still emanated from the sidewalks, the gray sky transitioned into a golden glow courtesy of the lanterns and other nearby lights.
Outside Pergamonto, a few customers lounged at the cafe’s umbrella-covered tables. Potted plants flanked the mahogany doors of the caramel-colored building. A sweet, aromatic scent enticed us to stay.
Hesitantly, we remained near the door once we ventured inside. Small, but efficient in the use of its narrow space. A couple of modest shelves and a cooler played host to bottled drinks and other decorative items. A small table and chairs were nestled in front of the window. On either side, two long, narrow countertops hugged the pastel green walls.
We located a laminated menu and pored over it as the customers in front of us waited for their order. Hand-written prices were recorded next to the various items. Sweet loukoumades, salted loukoumades, Greek desserts, yogurts, waffles and ice cream.
Loukoumades? Crispy, deep-fried balls of dough, the attentive proprietor explained. And then she continued to make her personal recommendations.
The menu featured almost 20 variations. With honey. With honey and ice cream. I didn’t need to read any further. But, out of curiosity, I did. With praline and ice cream. With vanilla ice cream and lemon jelly.
After placing our order, we watched the preparation over the countertop. With care, the confectionery artists dropped the dough into the boiling oil. After a short dance, the golden desserts were scooped up and arranged in a pile on a glass platter.
Next came a drizzling of warm honey followed by a sprinkling of ground cinnamon, powder left dusting the counter. A spoonful of walnuts topped the already delicious-looking concoction. Finally, a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.
As we indulged in the dessert, we reflected upon the highlights of our trip and upon returning home. We dared to imagine how we could ever top that particular trip with what we had planned for the following summer.
My thoughts often return to that night. To that cafe. To the friendly proprietors, our hosts. It marks our last experience spent abroad. And the naivety with which we took for granted there would have been another trip to another part of the world last summer.
Since future travel remains uncertain at this time, I’m appreciative of what we found: the sweetest way to cap off our stay in Greece.
(Note: Marjorie Appelman is an English, communications and journalism teacher at Mason County High School and co-founder of Tales from the Trip, which is on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook. She can be reached at marj.appelman@gmail.com.)











