Do stinky foods control what you eat or where you eat them? Perhaps they should but they’ve never stopped me. A recent conversation with a friend playing the dating game explored what foods she eats on dates or more importantly, what foods she does not. A chef herself, I was shocked to hear she stays away from garlic and onions when out a first date. I suppose I just always had the attitude we may figure this out now rather than later. Surprise, surprise! I married a man who loves onions and garlic as much as I do.
My grandmother always kept a bag of thinly sliced onion ready in her freezer along with a bag of frozen pearl onions. I’m not sure if she saved the pearls for special occasions but it always felt like she did. Something about the simple pearl made it feel that much more decadent and delightful.
Later in my culinary career, I took that simple step and began utilizing these delicious little delights in my fancier dishes. I could have used sliced onion but something about those sweet little pearls still spoke volumes and literally elevated the dish. The clients, young and old, loved the humble gourmet touch.
Close to a marble in size, pearl onions are sold loose, in netted bags, or frozen. Mild and sweet, they are delicious eaten whole, roasted, pickled, glazed, or braised. Although nothing beats fresh, I usually purchase these young onions in the frozen section. I don’t have time to peel them and am more than happy to skip a tedious step. There are few times I recommend frozen over fresh, but this is definitely one of those times. Especially during the busy holiday season.
Today I have included a few of my favorite pearl onion recipes. The creamed pearl onion gravy is among my absolute favorite recipes. I go back to it again and again. It’s creamy and crunchy, not to mention a little non-traditional on my holiday table.
Pearls, potatoes, peas and ham is a variation of one of my grandmother’s gold standards. It just feels like home in a bowl and is an easy way to utilize any holiday leftovers.
The balsamic, thyme and onion sauce is so simple and flavorful. It elevates basic meat dishes but is sensational on mashed potatoes or carrots. The thyme gives it a punch that tastes like the holidays.
All of these recipes are simple, require minimum ingredients and my favorite ingredient, minimal time. You can even make them ahead.
Good luck and enjoy!
Creamed Pearl Onion Gravy
2 packages frozen pearl onions, around 14-15 ounces each
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, have on hand to use as needed.
¼ tsp kosher salt, have on hand to add as much as you prefer.
6 Tbsp unsalted butter
6 Tbsp flour
3 cups milk
¾ cup chopped fresh parsley, have a little extra on hand for garnish.
¼ cup dry sherry
¾ tsp paprika
⅛ tsp ground cloves
⅛ tsp ground nutmeg
4 tbsp panko bread crumbs, others will work but panko are extra crunchy.
Partially thaw onions, about ten minutes. Cut onions thinly by slicing crosswise into rounds. Set in a colander and allow onion slices to thaw completely.
Drain and spread on a paper towel-lined tray. Pat dry with paper towels.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and ¼ tsp salt. Stir frequently and cook until the liquid evaporates and the onions are lightly brown and slightly crisp.
Melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour until smooth. Cook until pale golden, about 30 seconds.
Gradually whisk in milk. Increase your heat to medium-high and cook, whisking frequently until sauce has begun to bubble, has thickened, and is smooth. This should take about eight minutes.
Add parsley, sherry, paprika, cloves, and cooked onions. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Transfer to three buttered 2-cup broiler-safe baking dishes or one buttered 2-quart baking dish.
At this point, onions may be made and chilled, covered up (three days ahead). If eating shortly after cooking, bake uncovered in a 450-degree oven for 15 minutes, then stir.
Preheat the broiler too high. Sprinkle panko evenly over the onion mixture. Broil five inches from heat source or until panko is golden brown, 1-2 minutes. Watch closely as it will burn quickly. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately while hot.
Pearls, Potatoes, Peas & Ham
Serves 4
1 pound leftover ham with bone and some fat or one pound country ham
Salt to taste
12 new potatoes, golf ball sized are best
12 pearl onions, peeled and trimmed
1 pound green peas
¼ cup half&half
Fresh ground black pepper
Separate as much meat from the fat and bones as possible. Set meat aside for later and, and put the rest in a wide soup pot, Dutch oven, or crockpot. Add water so that all ingredients are covered and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down to a low and steady simmer, cover and cook for 30 minutes.
When broth is ready, remove the pot from the heat and spoon the solid matter into a strainer and set over the pot. Press down gently and return the juices to the pot then discard the solids. Taste the broth and add salt as needed. (Hams vary in their saltiness, so the broth will also.)
Add potatoes and onions to the broth. Return it to medium heat, and cook at a lively simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until the potatoes are becoming tinder. Add peas and cook for 5-10 minutes longer.
While peas are cooking, break the reserved meat into bite-sized chunks. When the peas are tender, add the meat to the ot. Very slowly add the half&half to the pot, stir well, and then bring the heat up until the liquid boils. Boil for one minute, until the broth thickens to a light sauce consistency, and then remove from the heat. Finish with salt to taste and a few grinds of black pepper.
Balsamic & Thyme Onion Sauce
Melt 2 Tbsp butter in the skillet over medium heat. Add 1 cup thinly sliced red onions or pearl onion (whole or sliced), 1 Tbsp brown sugar and ½ tsp salt. Saute for four minutes.
Stir in one cup reduced-sodium chicken broth and three tbsp balsamic vinegar. Bring to a boil. Cook for seven minutes or until the onion is tender, stirring frequently and adding additional broth if necessary for the desired consistency. Stir in 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme and serve. Delicious over meat and veggies.
The recipe and photos used in today’s article are from the kitchen of Chef Babz (babzbitesa@gmail.com) with a little help from Victuals By Ronni Lundy, 2016.
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